Meringues

What it is

Meringues are the crisp, pale sweets of Switzerland's Bernese Oberland, most closely associated with the small town of Meiringen. They are not merely a light confection but substantial, dry discs that require patience to make and a steady hand to break. Unlike the soft mounds found in many countries, Swiss meringues are large, hard throughout and intensely sweet, shattering into crumbs at the first bite.

The defining feature of these pastries is their texture. A proper Swiss meringue must be dry from the centre to the edge, offering a sharp crackle that gives way to a fine, sandy powder. This specific quality distinguishes them from softer varieties that might melt in the mouth. They are a regional speciality of the Bernese Oberland, with strong traditions also in the neighbouring cantons of Fribourg and Vaud.

In the Gruyère district of Fribourg, the sweetness of the meringue is balanced by a single, traditional accompaniment: crème double de la Gruyère. This thick, rich local cream is spooned generously over the hard white shells, softening their surface just enough to make them edible while retaining their structural integrity. In summer, fresh local berries are often added to the plate, a tart contrast to the sugar and the cream.

The Meiringen claim

The village of Meiringen in the Bernese Oberland has long claimed that it is the birthplace of this specific style of meringue. Local tradition holds that the recipe was developed there around 1720 by an Italian-born confectioner named Gasparini, who named it after the village. The town's identity is tied to the sweet, with the name Meiringen often appearing on menus alongside the word Meringues.

However, the origin story remains disputed. There is no surviving documentation that confirms the inventor, the date, or a single bakery as the source, and recipes for whipped and dried egg white and sugar already appear in English manuscripts of the early 1600s, a century before the Meiringen date. Because the historical record does not support it, the claim made by Meiringen remains a local assertion rather than a verified fact.

What is not in doubt is that the Bernese Oberland and the dairy country west of it eat a great many of them, and that the hard, dry version is the local standard.

The making of the sweet

Swiss meringues are defined by their ratio of ingredients rather than complex techniques. The standard composition is roughly two parts sugar to one part egg white by weight. This high proportion of sugar is what gives the pastry its characteristic hardness and intense sweetness. The mixture is whipped until it reaches a stiff consistency, then slowly dried in an oven at a low temperature for several hours.

The slow drying process is critical. If the heat is too high or the time too short, the centre may remain soft or sticky, which is considered a failure. The goal is a uniform dryness that allows the meringue to be broken cleanly and stored without becoming soggy. Once dried, the result is a large, firm shell that can be quite heavy for its size.

No flour, no butter, no flavouring: egg white, sugar, and hours of low heat.

How it is eaten

The standard way to enjoy meringues in Switzerland is as a dessert served at the end of a meal or as a sweet treat during an afternoon break. They are rarely eaten plain. The Gruyère custom is to spoon crème double de la Gruyère over the top, allowing the thick cream to seep into the cracks and soften the surface slightly. This creates a contrast between the hard, sugary shell and the smooth, fatty cream.

In summer, fresh berries such as strawberries, raspberries, or blackcurrants are often added to the plate. The tartness of the fruit cuts through the sweetness of the meringue and the fat of the cream, creating a balanced bite. The combination is a staple in the Fribourg and Vaud countryside, where it is considered a classic way to finish a lunch or a tea break.

The texture requires a specific approach. One does not simply bite into a dry meringue; instead, one allows the cream to work on the surface before taking a bite. The result is crumbling sugar held in cream. It is often accompanied by a cup of black coffee, which helps to cleanse the palate between bites.

Curious facts

• A hard texture. Unlike soft meringues found elsewhere, Swiss meringues are dry throughout, requiring a slow drying process to achieve the correct consistency.
• The cream is essential. In Gruyère, crème double is not an optional topping but the component that transforms the pastry from a brittle sweet into a balanced dessert.
• Summer berries. Fresh local berries are added in summer to provide tartness, creating a seasonal variation on the standard cream-and-sugar combination.
• Meiringen's claim. The village of Meiringen asserts that a confectioner called Gasparini invented the sweet there, though no historical records confirm the story.
• Coffee companion. Black coffee is a common drink alongside meringues, helping to balance the intense sweetness of the sugar and cream.

Where to try it

A tea room in Meiringen offers the best chance to taste the local version, where the meringues usually come with whipped cream, fruit or ice cream. For the crème double version, go west to the Gruyère district of Fribourg, where it is made.

Other towns in the area also serve excellent versions. Château-d'Oex, a village known for its cheese and dairy traditions, is a popular stop for those seeking this sweet. Interlaken, situated at the foot of the Bernese Alps, offers meringues in many local cafés, often with a view of the surrounding mountains. Montbovon, a small village in the Gruyère district, also has a tradition of serving these pastries alongside their local cheeses.

They are also sold by the bag in bakeries across the Bernese Oberland and Fribourg, to be taken home and eaten with cream bought from the same counter.

In Gruyère the meringues are served with double crème de la Gruyère, the region's thick, high-fat cream.