Umbrichelli

What it is

Umbrichelli are a thick, hand-rolled pasta specific to the Orvieto area of Umbria and the surrounding south of the region. Made from flour and water without any eggs, the dough is worked by hand into long, uneven strands that resemble a fat, untidy version of spaghetti. The irregular shape is intentional; the rough surface created by rolling provides an ideal texture for holding onto sauces.

This dish belongs to the tradition of cucina povera, or poor cooking, which relies on simple ingredients and skill rather than equipment. In Orvieto and across southern Umbria, umbrichelli are a staple of home cooking and local trattorias. They sit alongside Tuscan pici and Umbrian strangozzi as cousins in the same family of hand-rolled pastas, distinguished mainly by thickness, length and the local name given to them; elsewhere in Umbria the same pasta may be called umbricelli, ciriole or strangozzi.

The making of the strands

There is no machine involved in the creation of umbrichelli. The dough consists simply of flour and water, mixed until it forms a firm ball that can be worked without sticking. A cook takes a piece of dough and rolls it between their palms on a flat surface, using the friction to stretch it into long strands. The result is never perfectly uniform; the strands vary in thickness and length, which is exactly how they are meant to be.

This method requires no special tools, only the hands of the cook and a clean surface. The irregularity of the final product is its defining feature. Unlike extruded pasta from a factory, these strands have a porous texture that allows sauces to cling deeply rather than sliding off. In the pastures and fields around Orvieto, this was the way pasta was made for families who needed a filling meal without relying on eggs or expensive ingredients.

What goes into it

The simplicity of the dough means the flavour comes entirely from the sauce that accompanies it. Classic dressings reflect the local produce of Umbria and the seasons:

• Tomato: Simple tomato sauces, including a spicy arrabbiata.
• Meat ragù: A rich, slow-cooked meat sauce.
• Black truffle: In the autumn, when the local forests yield their harvest, thin shavings of black truffle are added to elevate the dish.

These sauces are hearty enough to stand up to the substantial weight of the pasta. The dish is not a light starter but a filling plate of pasta.

How to eat it

Umbrichelli are typically served as a main course at lunch or dinner in an Orvieto trattoria. They are often presented in a deep plate or a shallow bowl, allowing the sauce to pool around the strands. The pasta is usually eaten with a fork, sometimes twirling the uneven lengths into neat bundles before lifting them to the mouth.

In winter, the meat ragù and black truffle versions offer warmth, while the tomato preparations suit warmer days when fresh tomatoes are available.

Curious facts

• No eggs needed. Unlike many Italian pastas from the north, umbrichelli rely solely on flour and water, a technique born of economic necessity in the region.
• A cousin to pici. The dish shares DNA with Tuscan pici and Umbrian strangozzi, differing mainly in thickness and local naming conventions rather than ingredients.
• The rough surface matters. The uneven texture created by hand-rolling is essential for trapping sauces, making the pasta ideal for rich meat ragùs.
• Seasonal truffle finish. While available year-round, the dish reaches its peak in autumn when local black truffles are added to the sauce.
• A tool-free process. The entire pasta is made without machines, relying entirely on the skill of the cook's hands and a flat surface.

Where to try it

The best place to eat umbrichelli is in an Orvieto trattoria, where the tradition remains strong. Other towns across southern Umbria also offer versions of this pasta, though the name umbrichelli is most closely tied to Orvieto.

Related: Strangozzi al tartufo nero, Umbria's other hand-cut pasta, served with black truffle.