Meefischli

What it is

Meefischli are small, whole river fish deep-fried until they are golden and brittle, a speciality of Würzburg on the Main. The name comes from the local Franconian dialect, in which the Main is called the Mee, so Meefischli are simply "little Main fish", the diminutive -li reflecting their modest size. They are not a dish for those who prefer to pick bones from a plate; they are eaten whole, heads and tails and all, using only fingers and a napkin.

The fish are small enough to be eaten in a single bite or two. Usually only a few centimetres long, they are cleaned and coated in flour or crumbs before being dropped into hot oil. The result is a shell of crisp, salty crust that encases the soft flesh inside. There is no sauce on the plate and little garnish to distract from the simplicity. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice is the usual condiment, meant to cut the fat of the fried skin rather than mask the flavour of the river.

Where they come from

These fish belong to Lower Franconia in northern Bavaria, and above all to the stretch of the Main River that flows past Würzburg. They are especially popular in the warmer months, when riverside inns and wine taverns put tables outside.

The tradition is tied to the local Gasthaus, or inn, along the river, where diners can watch the current while they eat. Whitefish from the Main are still caught by local river fishermen, though not every plate served today necessarily comes from the river itself, and availability can vary with the catch. Meefischli are also sold fried at Würzburg's market, a quick snack for shoppers.

How they are eaten

Eating Meefischli is a hands-on affair. The fish arrive hot, piled on a simple plate or in a paper cone. Diners pick them up by the tail and eat them whole, crisp head and all, taking in the crunchy skin and the delicate meat within. It is messy by design, and fingers will inevitably get slightly greasy.

The experience is not meant to be elegant in the fine-dining sense. It is rustic and communal. A typical serving comes with a slice of crusty bread to soak up any oil or lemon juice that remains on the plate, sometimes with a simple salad. The bread acts as a buffer against the saltiness of the fried skin and a vehicle for the last bits of flavour.

A glass of Franconian Silvaner is a natural partner. This dry white wine is traditionally bottled in the Bocksbeutel, a flat, round-bellied flask with a short neck that is the hallmark of Franconian wine. The crisp acidity of the Silvaner cuts through the oiliness of the fried fish. A glass of beer is a common alternative.

Curious facts

• Eaten whole. Unlike larger river fish where bones are removed, Meefischli are fried and eaten complete, with heads, tails and fine bones.
• A dialect name. Mee is the Würzburg pronunciation of Main; the riverside quarter of Würzburg is known in dialect as the Meeviertel.
• Seasonal favourite. They are most popular in summer, when the riverside terraces are open.
• Market snack. Besides inns, Meefischli are sold freshly fried at Würzburg's market.
• Local bottle shape. The wine served with them often comes in the Bocksbeutel, a distinctive flat flask that identifies it as Franconian.

Where to try it

The best place to eat Meefischli is at a riverside Gasthaus or wine tavern along the Main in Würzburg during the summer months. Not every establishment serves them every day, so asking locals or the tourist information office which places have them on the menu is worthwhile. A visit to the old town is a natural fit, but the true experience happens by the water's edge.