Pidoni

What it is

Pidoni are fried half-moon turnovers that are a fixture of street food culture in Messina, in north-east Sicily. They are not a dish for a sit-down table but a handheld snack, sold hot, wrapped in paper, by local rosticcerie and bakeries. The pastry is thin and crisp, folded around a filling of escarole or curly endive, anchovy and tuma, a fresh, unsalted Sicilian cheese, with plenty of black pepper. Sometimes a little tomato joins the mix, but the core combination remains constant: the bitterness of the greens, the salt of the fish and the mild creaminess of the cheese.

The name comes from the local dialect, and Messinesi still debate whether it should be spelt pidoni or pitoni; the singular is pidone or pitone. The turnover resembles a small calzone, but the texture is distinct because it is deep-fried rather than baked. The dough is traditionally unleavened, made with flour, water, lard and often a splash of wine. Pidoni belong to the day and the evening alike, eaten standing up as a quick meal or a substantial snack.

The role of tuma in the filling

The defining element of a true pidone is the tuma. This is not the mozzarella found elsewhere in Italy. Tuma is a young, fresh cheese, taken before it is salted or aged. It melts into a mild, creamy texture when heated, providing a soft centre to the crunchy pastry. Its lack of salt balances the intense savoury notes of the anchovy and the bitterness of the greens.

As the pastry fries, the cheese softens into a warm, molten core that coats the green filling. The anchovy adds a deep savoury layer against the richness of the cheese and the frying. This trio of ingredients, bitter greens, salty fish and fresh cheese, is the signature taste of the snack.

Where it comes from in Messina

Pidoni are tied specifically to the city of Messina on the eastern tip of Sicily. They are a product of the local rosticceria tradition, which has its own character, distinct from the street food of Palermo further west. A rosticceria is a small shop selling hot savoury snacks to take away, from fried items to baked ones.

In Messina, the rosticceria is part of daily life. These shops offer a range of items including arancini, focaccia messinese and pidoni, and many families also make pidoni at home. While similar fried pastries exist across southern Italy, the combination of curly endive, anchovy and tuma marks the Messina version as distinct. Locals have firm views on which shops make the best versions, often returning to the same place for years.

How it is eaten

Pidoni are eaten hot, fresh from the fryer, typically wrapped in paper or on a simple plate. The filling is hot and soft, so the first bite needs care.

They are substantial enough to serve as a light lunch or an evening snack, and pair well with a glass of local white wine or a cold beer. The contrast between the crisp exterior and the creamy interior makes them satisfying without being overly heavy.

Curious facts

• The name varies. Both pidoni and pitoni appear on menus and signs, and the correct spelling remains a matter of friendly local debate.
• A cheese marker. The use of fresh tuma helps distinguish these turnovers from similar fried pastries in other parts of southern Italy.
• The filling changes slightly. Some versions include a little tomato, but the core trio of greens, anchovy and tuma remains constant.
• Fried, not baked. The deep-fried method is the standard preparation in Messina's shops.
• A local staple. The snack is closely linked to Messina's rosticceria culture and to home cooking in the city.

Where to try it

The best place to eat pidoni is a traditional rosticceria or bakery in Messina's city centre or its surrounding neighbourhoods, where the tradition remains strongest and the pidoni come straight from the fryer.