Brandacujun

What it is

Brandacujun is a rustic purée from the western coast of Liguria, the Riviera di Ponente around Imperia. It is a dish of stoccafisso—stockfish, cod that has been air-dried rather than salted—boiled with potatoes and then beaten together with olive oil, garlic and parsley until it forms a thick, coarse mash. Many cooks add Taggiasca olives, a little lemon, and sometimes pine nuts. The texture is neither smooth nor chunky; traditionally the ingredients should break down without turning to pulp.

The dish belongs to the broader Mediterranean family of fish-and-oil purées, and it is often compared with the Provençal brandade de morue, which is made with salt cod and sometimes enriched with milk or cream. The Ligurian version relies on the potatoes, vigorous physical effort and good local olive oil. It is served warm, either as a starter spread onto slices of toasted bread or as a hearty main course. It is listed among Liguria's traditional agri-food products (PAT).

The name itself is a playful piece of local humour. Brandare refers to the shaking motion required to make the dish, while cujun is a coarse dialect word for a fool—or, more bluntly, for testicles.

The method behind the name

The defining characteristic of brandacujun is how it is made. Rather than being stirred with a spoon, the mixture is put into a pot with a lid, and the cook holds the vessel by its handles and shakes it vigorously, up and down or in circles. This action breaks up the soft potatoes and fish while incorporating the oil and other ingredients into a unified mass.

According to the most common story, the dish was born among sailors who kept stockfish and potatoes on board, and the job of shaking the pot fell to the cujun—the least experienced or least lively member of the crew, who could not be trusted with any other task. In practice, today it is often a lighthearted way to get everyone involved, although many restaurants now simply use a blender.

This technique gives the dish its specific texture: rough and slightly aerated but dense enough to coat bread generously. The result is a pale, creamy paste that retains the distinct flavours of the stockfish and the oil.

What goes into it

There is no single official recipe, and every household in the Riviera di Ponente has its own preference for the balance of ingredients. The core components are:

• Stockfish (stoccafisso), soaked until soft, boiled and flaked to remove bones and skin; some cooks use salt cod instead.
• Boiled potatoes, cooked with the fish to provide body and starch.
• Extra virgin olive oil, ideally from Taggiasca olives, the fruity Ligurian cultivar, which forms the base of the purée.
• Garlic and fresh parsley, added for aroma and a touch of green.
• Taggiasca olives, lemon and pine nuts, added in some versions for a briny, fresh or nutty note.

The mixture is finished with a pinch of salt if needed. The final product looks simple but requires patience to get right.

How it is eaten

Brandacujun is most often served as a starter or part of an antipasto spread, scooped onto slices of toasted country bread with an extra drizzle of Ligurian olive oil. In a larger portion it also makes a substantial main course. It is usually presented in a central bowl where diners can help themselves.

It pairs naturally with the white wines of the region. A glass of Pigato or Vermentino complements the fish and fruity oil without overpowering the flavours.

Curious facts

• A name for the worker. Cujun means a fool (or, more crudely, testicles), and the job of shaking the pot traditionally went to the least useful member of the group.
• Shaking, not stirring. The dish is defined by shaking the covered pot by its handles rather than using a spoon or whisk.
• Stockfish, not salt cod. The traditional recipe uses air-dried stockfish, which sailors could keep on board for long voyages.
• No dairy. Unlike some versions of the Provençal brandade, brandacujun uses no milk or cream; its body comes from the oil and the potatoes.
• A cold-weather favourite. Though stockfish keeps all year, the warm purée is especially welcome in winter.

Where to try it

The best place to eat brandacujun is a traditional trattoria in Imperia and the surrounding Riviera di Ponente, where the dish is served as a starter alongside other local specialities. It is a food of the coast, simple and hearty, reflecting the maritime and agricultural rhythms of the western Riviera.