Müllendorf.

Müllendorf sits among the vineyards of Burgenland, in the hills that give the Leithaberg DAC its name. The village is small and built around wine rather than monuments, with family-run cellars lining its streets and rows of vines climbing the hills behind. Leithaberg wines, made mostly from Blaufränkisch and Pinot Blanc, are tasted in small cellars run by the families who tend the vines.

Hiking paths lead up through the vineyards and into the wooded hills behind the village. In spring the vines are freshly pruned and green; by September the harvest sets a steady rhythm of picking and pressing that shapes the village calendar. Local kitchens serve food that matches the wine — hearty, regional, built around what is in season.

The village rewards slow attention: a walk through the cellars, a conversation with a winemaker, a plate of something local eaten outdoors while the light changes over the vines.